Readers’ Recipe Contest: Pastitsio

Submitted by Panagiota Agganis

“θα φέρω παστίτσιο!”

“I’ll bring pastitsio!”

My mother’s infamous dish at any gathering, and we all sigh with relief knowing it will be there. You can think of pastitsio as the Greek cousin of lasagna. Pastitsio is not quite the vision of antiquity as is its country of origin. Nikolaos Tselementes was the genius behind this dish. Incredibly influential in the early 20th century, his French culinary training is behind the béchamel topping as opposed to the traditional phyllo. The meat sauce perfumes the kitchen with classic Greek spices like cinnamon, bay and cloves. Soon it's layered with bucatini pasta, and the only antidote is to take a nap immediately after. The dish itself is like a Greek mom, comforting and always tempting you to eat just one more bite. This recipe is an almost replica of my mother’s. My mother is an effortless cook and never measures ingredients. Over my 25 years, I have picked up her tips and tricks with this dish. However, there is just one small problem. I have been sworn to secrecy, and I can’t include her “secret ingredient” that goes into her béchamel. I wish I could, but this one little thing is up to the brave cook's imagination.

Pastitsio is the perfect winter weekend project. It’s hearty and will easily feed a large family or group of friends. Being that there are quite a few moving parts, I have found that it’s easier when breaking down the preparation. Perhaps prepare the meat sauce and béchamel one day and then assemble and bake the next. Put on some music or Facetime a loved one and have fun with it! Pastitsio is the show stopper at the meal but it is lovely when paired with a fresh salad. A glass of red wine to finish will be much deserved for the cook.

PASTITSIO

Serves 8–10

Béchamel:
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5 cups milk, room temperature - warm
1½ cups grated kefalograviera cheese
salt
ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Sauce:
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup diced red onion, about 1 medium red onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Ground black pepper
2 pounds ground beef
2 cinnamon sticks
4 cloves
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 bay leaves
¾ cup red wine
1 28-ounce can tomatoes
1 pound Pastitsio noodles, such as Misko #2

Preheat oven to 350° F.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly for about 3–4 minutes. It will be bubbling vigorously but keep a careful eye on it to ensure it does not get too dark. Slowly stream in the warm milk and continue to whisk until it has thickened, about 10–13 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in 1 cup of the grated kefalograviera. Taste, and then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover the surface of the béchamel with a piece of parchment paper and set it aside.

Set a medium-sized Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil. Once it starts to shimmer add the chopped onion and sauté for about 4 minutes until translucent. Add the minced garlic, tomato paste, salt and pepper. Cook for about 2–3 minutes. Add the ground beef and break up with a wooden spoon, cook until beef is browned, about 10 minutes. Add the cinnamon sticks, cloves, cumin and bay leaves. Stir until spices are evenly incorporated. Add the red wine and reduce until just about all has evaporated. Add the canned tomatoes and lower the heat slightly to keep it at just a simmer. Cook until the sauce has thickened for about 50–60 minutes. Let it cool to room temperature or even better kept in the fridge overnight.

While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of water to boil, season generously with salt and add the pastitsio noodles. Cook until just slightly less than al dente, about 8–9 minutes. It’s important we do not overcook the noodles since they will continue to cook in the oven. Drain and toss with a little olive oil or 1 egg white. Mix with 1 cup of grated kefalograviera cheese.

In a greased 11x17 pan arrange the noodles so they are facing the same direction. Evenly spread the meat sauce over the noodles in one even layer. Smooth the béchamel over the meat sauce, and sprinkle the remaining cup of grated kefalograviera over the béchamel. Bake until the top is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Set it under the broiler for just 2–3 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool almost completely before slicing. Enjoy! καλή όρεξη!

Editor’s note: This recipe has not been independently tested by the Edible Boston team.