Revisiting Cassie Piuma: Sarma, Somerville

Portrait: Kristin Teig

PROFILE EIGHT IN THIS SERIES: REVISITING BOSTON CHEFS AND THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC

What has been the major change since we last connected during our summer interview?

Oy, I’ve last track! 

Albert Einstein says, “the measure of intelligence is the ability to change.” If that’s true, then I’m a fucking genius! LOL. For real though,  [in] this industry, we ALL are.  We’ve twisted and turned, pivoted and propelled, fluctuated and failed.  All within a matter of months ...

And with all the odds stacked against us, no matter what the results, we never stopped trying. 

It’s hard to measure progress under duress, but I know for sure we’ve moved the needle. 

Do you offer winter outdoor dining and can you describe it? What would I need to wear to stay comfortable? 

We 86’ed outdoor dining at Sarma at the beginning of November, before the first major snowfall. Not enough heat lamps or demand to make it comfortable for the guests or enjoyable for our staff. 

How is the restaurant, cooking and preparing your menus now as opposed to pre-pandemic times?

We cook the same, prepare differently. The bells and whistles might be missing but the flavors are still reminiscent of spice laden adventures, rooted in comfort and accessibility. 

I like to do a test every week where I take home a dish designed for take-out, snuggly packaged in its plastic container. I let it sit on my counter for four hours and then I nuke it, longer than any food should reasonably be microwaved. If I still like it after all that, it stays on the menu. 

Please describe your winter menu. Any specials coming up for Valentine’s Day?

Winter menu is chock full of rich, soul-satisfying dishes: Egyptian lentil mac ‘n’ cheese, moussaka, miso mushroom avgolemono, sweet ‘n’ sour brisket.

Food that sticks to your ribs, fills you up and offers good value. But also loads of veggies.  We crave comfort this time of year but also need to fuel our bodies with the good stuff. Maybe even more so, during these stagnant COVID times. 

For Valentine’s Day we are offering four take away options. 

WILD MUSHROOM PHYLLO PIE  
Porcini avgolemono, celery root, sherry, truffles  $155

SHRIMP FRA DIAVOLO LINGUINE 
Preserved lemon, harissa, olive crumb $165

ZA'ATAR CHICKEN CORDON BLEU 
Smoked eggplant, basturma, string cheese $175

POMEGRANATE GLAZED LAMB SHANKS $185
Meyer lemon-mint gremolata, pistachio polenta  

ALL MEALS INCLUDE
Stuffed mushrooms (vegetarians will receive stuffed artichokes)
Hearts of palm ceviche
Haloumi-garlic pull apart bread
Red pepper pesto, sun dried tomatoes
Sweet potato bisque, ginger, dates
Beet tabbouleh, blood orange, avocado
Kale hindbeh, red onion, dried cherries

Turkish delights, rosé, petals
Chocolate revani, raspberry, candy box dukkah

 What dishes are the most popular?

All things pollo!  Sesame fried chicken with tahini remoulade, Lebanese grilled chicken wings and chicken shawarma fries are all consistently popular. 

What do you see happening in the coming months? 

The months of January/February have always been historically challenging. Chilly winter weather keeps people home and I don’t imagine the current situation helping an already exhausted landscape. However, I am hopeful take-out will keep us afloat and bring some much needed comfort to our community during this transitional period. Fingers crossed for a balmy March and the glorious return of outdoor dining! 

When the vaccine arrives and the pandemic subsides, what are the top three things you will do?

Aside from reopening my restaurant to its full capacity?! 

1. I have a LOOONNNGG list of overdue hugs that need to be administered immediately. 
2. Jumping on an airplane to anywhere. 
3. Live music followed by a live drink in a seriously live bar. 

Can you tell us your most challenging moment since the onset of the pandemic, and your most positive highlights?

Looking out into a sparse, dimly-lit dining room riddled with empty boxes and masking tape arrows (a shell of the restaurant I once knew) and remembering what was. Missing the energy and exuberance and celebratory vibes that filled every crack of that joint. Seeing the emotionally exhausted faces of our employees, day in and day out—living in fear for their industry, their safety and their futures. This is a tough pill to swallow, especially when we all know there was a better way. 

On the flip side, looking into that same dining room and seeing real effective change that has only been made possible by the same people who have been most severely impacted.

It’s easy to get lost in disappointment, but so important to celebrate progress, especially when it is born out of loss. This certainly wasn’t the year I wanted or expected, but I’m proud as hell of our team and all they have accomplished. And you know what? I’m gonna say something I don’t say very often (but I’m 41 so wtf) I’m proud of me too! :)

How have you been both personally and professionally grappling with life surrounding these tough times? What’s your source of relaxation and/or method of survival? 

Professionally: I have good days and bad. It’s hard to show up and lead others to greatness when you’re not feeling so great yourself. But whenever doubt looms in and my confidence starts to waver I remind myself that I am responsible for the livelihoods of many and giving up is simply not an option. 

Personally: I thank my lucky stars every day for my family. My daughters Fiona, 5, and Talula, 4, are my bright, shining little lights. Relaxation isn’t necessarily the word that comes to mind, but they certainly bring the fun, the laughter and all the things we as adults are desperately missing in our lives right now. They remind me to find joy in the small moments and to always push forward no matter what the circumstances. 

My husband, my partner, my buddy, Mattie P. He cleans up my messes, makes the best chili and bought me a foot spa for Christmas. 

I wouldn’t say I’m on the path to enlightenment, but it helps.

Finally what would you like to see for 2021 in the face of a new chapter—medically, politically and spiritually? 

Medically: vaccinations, vaccinations, vaccinations!!!!  

Politically: We’re embarking on something that’s bigger than any president. Forward movement and change that requires active participation and a real shift in the overall mentality of this country. I am hopeful our new administration will provide the leadership we deserve and the bridge we require to create a fair, equitable and civil union. We aren’t asking for perfection, just a step in the right direction❤️

Spiritually: I just want to listen to Pink Floyd and drink coffee by myself in a quiet place #chefmom

This interview appeared as an online exclusive in January 2021.