Almond Granita

Photos by Luke Pyenson

An ice cream purist for most of my life, I was forced to broaden my horizons by adultonset lactose intolerance. Frozen yogurt has, for the most part, eased my transition. But on a trip last summer to Sicily, birthplace of granita, I enjoyed such exquisite versions of this local delicacy that I was never even tempted by the ubiquitous gelato. At our favorite spot, in Taormina, the granita is churned in a sort of soft ice cream machine, which helps give it its ethereal consistency. In the recipe below, rather than raking the mixture as most recipes suggest, you whip it with a wire whisk. Also, rather than water, the most traditional granita liquid, the almond paste is soaked in milk. The result is as close as I’ve come to re-creating my Sicilian experience—while quarantining in Newton.

Serves 8

2 cups sugar
⅓ cup water
3 cups roasted unsalted almonds
4 cups whole milk

Make the almond paste: In a medium saucepan bring sugar and water to a rolling boil. While the simple syrup is cooking, coarsely chop the almonds in a food processor. When the syrup has come to a full boil, remove from heat and carefully pour over the almonds. Process until smooth. Be patient; it may feel like this will never come together. It can take up to 10 minutes. If your food processor is straining, you can add small amounts of water slowly until it starts moving freely again. Wrap the almond paste in plastic and let cool for 30 minutes. (Don’t expect it to look or feel like almond paste you buy; the goal is pure, natural almond flavor. It will be almost like a sticky dough you can press together.)

Heat milk over medium heat until warm (do not let it boil). Transfer to a large bowl. Add the almond paste and let it dissolve in the milk, stirring occasionally, until mixture is cool, about 30 minutes. Pour into a 9- by 13-inch metal pan and store in freezer, whisking every 30 minutes for 4 hours. Cover granita and freeze for at least 2 more hours before serving. For the full Sicilian experience feel free to add unsweetened whipped cream and a fluffy brioche bun.

This recipe appeared in the Summer 2020 issue as part of a larger story on D-I-Y Frozen Treats.