A North Shore Coastal Drive: From Marblehead to Lynn
Photos by Michael Piazza
Meander up the North Shore Corridor for a laidback summer weekend escape. Follow the coastal stretch to Marblehead with stops in Swampscott and Lynn. With so many tempting spots to explore, we’ve curated a list of favorites. Bring a cooler and leave room in your trunk to accommodate a haul of local specialties.
As you drive up Route 129 into Marblehead, you’ll find a classic brown house in an English garden with a teal sign marking STOWAWAY SWEETS, a cherished icon of Marblehead for nearly a century. Upon entry, candy lovers are overcome by the wafting aroma of chocolate. The shop hand-dips chocolates daily, and at the beginning, tempted the sweet tooths of both Queen Elizabeth and Franklin D. Roosevelt. Today, Don and Emily DeWitt are behind the scenes crafting specialty confections and chocolates like the Meltaways (dark or milk chocolate–coated whipped buttercream, so named because they do indeed melt in your mouth).
Continue down Atlantic Avenue to SHUBIE’S MARKETPLACE. Originally opened as a wine and package store 75 years ago by Bill Shube, it is now operated by second- and third-generations George, Carol and Doug Shube, and boasts a wide array of prepared foods (crispy lemon chicken, poached salmon, roasted curry cauliflower, to name a few), wines, spirits, craft beers and anything you can imagine for creating the ultimate charcuterie board. The Cali BLT is Doug’s personal choice, or try the VBC (herbed goat cheese, marinated kale, avocado, grilled on cranberry nut bread), a customer favorite.
Next head to Old Town. On the corner of Washington and Darling streets is the warm, light-filled bakery, FARINE. As mentioned in Edible Tastings: Baguettes in the Winter 2026 issue, owners Laurent and Kathy Dedieu bake loaves with that perfectly crackly exterior and soft interior. Laurent is a boulanger who blends formal training with the traditions of his upbringing in the South of France. Using traditional French baking techniques, Farine also crafts small batches of assorted croissants, rolls and brioche buns. Be sure to grab yours, often still warm, before they sell out.
While winding through the storybook streets of Old Town, it’s easy to lose yourself as the breathtaking harbor views surround you. Slightly off the beaten path, tucked away on Beacon Street is LITTLE HARBOR LOBSTER COMPANY. Ten years ago, Bryn Brewin and her husband Andrew bought the compact fish market that dates back over a century, with their friends, Tim and Laura O’Keefe. It was important to them to preserve the boat-to-table connection. They pack an abundance of fresh catch—finfish, shellfish and chowders— into the market and source seafood directly from local fishermen whenever possible. On the prepared foods menu in summertime, lobster rolls are the best sellers, and poke bowls with tuna, salmon or cooked shrimp are a weekly special.
Now that you’re armed with some sandwiches and sweets, it’s a good time for a picnic. Hit the tides right and wade out to Gerry or Crowninshield Island. A few minutes away is Crocker Park atop a grassy hill overlooking the harbor. Grace Oliver Beach is a gem for kids, with shallow waters and tide pools. If you visit the first weekend in July, the Marblehead Festival of the Arts energizes the town with artisan markets and outdoor concerts. For a tour by sea, Jordan’s Launch runs daily boat rides through the harbor. Also, be sure to check out Marblehead’s row of specialty shops selling plenty of nautical-inspired gifts, jewelry, clothing and art that reflects the town’s character.
As golden hour approaches, check in at the quintessential, elegantly New England, HARBOR LIGHT INN. Peter and Suzanne Conway opened the 18th-century- styled inn with modern amenities in 1982, and their daughter Carolyn took over the day-to-day operations a few years ago. The inn will be celebrating 40 years this summer. Every one of the 20 rooms has its own unique furnishings and maritime charm, some even with fireplaces. After a day of exploring by foot, grab an ice cold drink in the tavern and take advantage of the outdoor pool and lovely garden patio.
For a prime dinner option, 5 CORNERS KITCHEN, located in the business district, has been a favorite since 2010, owned by another husband-and-wife duo, Barry and Begüm Edelman. The warm glow of the interior has a calm, intimate feel with art and accent plates adorning the walls. Inspired by French‑Mediterranean bistro cooking and global flavors, Chef Barry’s cuisine is grounded in a deep respect for well‑executed dishes. Order a dozen oysters followed by Moules Marinieres with mussels from Maine or seared yellowfin tuna—or a classic steak frites.
For a nightcap, slip into THE HIDDEN DOOR, Marblehead’s very own speakeasy. Yes, a speakeasy, run by Victoria and Todd Horvath. Upon arrival, the greeter will direct you to a secret door in a mysterious bookshelf. Behind the bookshelf, you are transported into a lively bar with great ambiance and an even better cocktail menu. The team leans into cocktails built around fresh, seasonal ingredients and updates their menu frequently. Summer cocktails focus on many spritz-style, citrus-forward options. The team also serves easy, shared food options that pair well with the drinks.
The next morning, after a bountiful continental breakfast at the Harbor Light Inn, take a stroll for coffee and casual company at MOOKIE’S AT MUGFORD. Opened in 2019 by yet another wife-and-husband pair, Laetitia and Sean Ferguson, the café is always buzzing. Order one of the espresso drinks; the florals—lavender and rose—are the most popular summer lattes. If you’re not a coffee fan, the blackberry and strawberry matcha lattes are also popular. Breakfast sandwiches are made to order, and the loaded avocado toast is a popular item.
Time to pack the car and head to the beach-vibey community of Swampscott. Every summer Sunday morning there’s a farmers market located at the Swampscott Town Hall; vendors set up their goods, including an assortment of produce, meats, seafood, breads, flowers and artisanal products from farmers and makers throughout Massachusetts and New England.
Venture down Humphry Street to the newly opened bakery, THREE HUNDRED FIFTY. Lilly Tapper first sold her bite-sized works of art at the Swampscott and Marblehead farmers markets. Now, on weekends customers line up for one of the famed specialty drinks like the Cookie Butter Latte or Oreo Cream Cold Brew. Order a box of intricately handcrafted microcakes and cookies with designs and flavors reflecting the summer season.
Further down Humphry, VOLO CRAFT PIZZA serves some of the best pizza in the area. Dario Paone opened the takeout spot in 2017, and at its core Volo is about simplicity and authenticity. The team crafts two styles of pizza: classic New York or Detroit Style, an offshoot of Sicilian. To hone his craft, Dario traveled to Michigan to work directly with a consultant, mastering the technique behind the rectangular, thick crust pizza with sauce spread over the toppings, and those signature crispy edges. Order the Margherita or the North End Feast. When placing your order, just note whether you prefer New York Style or Detroit Style. Volo also serves sandwiches and other Italian specialties. It’s primarily takeout, but they do set up tables outside during the summer months to enjoy a slice al fresco.
As you make your way back to Boston, Lynn is the final stop along the way. The diverse city has rich industrial roots. Located on Eastern Avenue, and mentioned in a past Edible Food Find, is DURUM, from Al Georgio III of Boston’s North End’s La Famiglia Giorgio. The team uses time‑honored methods to create products that speak for themselves. They use the finest all-natural ingredients in their extensive pasta selection, as well-prepared foods like the ever-popular meatballs, chicken parmesan, and the tomato sauce, which is Al’s mother’s recipe. If you feel so inclined, order one of the stacked sandwiches like the Prosciutto and Fig Schiacciata with Prosciutto di Parma and homemade stracciatella cheese on homemade schiacciata bread. Just in time for summer, Durum will begin serving gelato in scoops or pints, crafted in a Cattabriga artisan gelato machine, imported from Italy.
A summer excursion to Lynn is not complete without a stop at NIGHTSHADE CLAM SHACK. From June to September on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, Rachel Miller’s NIGHTSHADE NOODLE BAR extends its offerings. Exclusively an online takeout (or delivery) spot, the clam shack creates innovative twists on New England fried seafood with influences from the south, Vietnam and France. Order a few items like the Fried Clam Box served with coconut ranch and spicy tamarind dips or a Fried Chili-Ranch Soft Shell Crab Banh Mi. Since the spot was mentioned as one last summer’s “Edible Food Finds,” Nightshade has since received the prestigious Michelin Guide Recommended Restaurant Selection.
Next up, LUCILLE WINE BAR & BOTTLE SHOP sets the benchmark for Lynn. Founded by Sarah Marshall, a certified sommelier, Lucille was named in honor of Sarah’s grandmother, blending legacy with a modern sensibility since opening in 2020. The hybrid European-inspired concept combines a carefully curated wine shop with an inviting wine bar featuring an exceptional artisanal cheese program, and a standout selection of tinned fish, alongside local gourmet items. The space is designed as a lounge, reminiscent of a grandmother’s living room reimagined for modern times, with a communal table and weekly tastings. With a focus on Old World European wines, Lucille emphasizes sustainability and multigenerational winemaking, prioritizing traceability and accountability.
To round out your beverage collection, head to BENT WATER BREWING, which has been offering beers to go since 2015 after founders Aaron Reames, Mike Shaugnessy and Chris Crawford turned a homebrewing hobby into a thriving business that blends art and science. Now serving much of the Northeast, Bent Water is known for thoughtful, well-crafted beers, including a seasonal Pilsner. They also sell cans of hard seltzers in creative flavors like key lime and blackberry lemon.
For one more stop, try PAPIVIVI, a Puerto Rican sandwich shop located at an intersection along the Lynn–Saugus line. Owned by Sam Cortiella, the idea began back in 2017 when he was living in New York City, serving sandwiches alongside his daughter, Vivi. After gaining a loyal following, he relocated back to his home state and opened a brick-and-mortar spot in Lynn. The menu features a range of classic Puerto Rican plates, but the heart of the concept remains the Tripleta sandwich with pernil, beef, chicken, cheese, lettuce, tomato and their PapiVivi Messy Sauce (grab a bottle for home). To drink, try the Chi Chi, named after Puerto Rican professional golfer Chi Chi Rodríguez, a refreshing twist on an Arnold Palmer made with limeade and passion fruit.
Throughout these businesses from Marblehead to Swampscott to Lynn, pride and passion come through in every product and story along the way.
This story appeared in the Summer 2026 issue.
