Rhubarb Shikanji: Tart and Sweet Summer Sherbet

Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Summers in India were marked by lip-puckering raw mangoes, amla (Indian gooseberry) or fruity tamarind transformed into shikanji or sherbets. Laced with spices, these icy drinks were tart, refreshing, thirst-quenching and known to aid digestion. Memories of those summer treats inspired me to create this rhubarb shikanji—a tangy, spiced refresher perfect for the warm months ahead.

It’s a delicious example of how recipes travel and evolve, adapting to the local produce of new homes. This version celebrates the fleeting harvest of New England rhubarb in a vibrant, unexpected avatar.

Serves 8–10

FOR THE SHIKANJI:
2 cups cleaned and diced rhubarb (from about half a pound)
⅓ cup organic cane sugar
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
2 pods black cardamom
1 pod green cardamom
1 small dried red chili or ½ teaspoon Sicilian chili flakes
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
¼ teaspoon sea salt
⅓ cup water

FOR THE SHERBET (1 serving):
1 tablespoon prepared shikanji
2–3 mint leaves
½ teaspoon chaat masala
½ cup frozen lemonade, or ½ cup crushed ice
1 can plain seltzer (omit if using frozen lemonade)

Make the Shikanji:
Put the rhubarb and sugar into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and set aside. Crush the spices roughly using a mortar and pestle, then tip them into the pan with the rhubarb. Smash the ginger with the mortar and pestle and add it, along with ⅓ cup of water, to the pan of rhubarb. Stir to mix these ingredients.

Set the pan over medium heat and simmer the mixture for 20–22 minutes, until it reduces to resemble a loose jam. Set the pan aside and let the rhubarb cool for 10 minutes.

Transfer the rhubarb mixture to the jar of a blender. Process until smooth, adding a bit of water (up to ½ cup) if needed to ease the blending.

Return the shikanji to the pan. Set the pan over medium/medium-low heat and simmer for 5–8 minutes, stirring constantly;use a long-handled spoon as the mixture will bubble and spit at this stage. Note: This second boil evaporates the liquid added during blending.

Set aside to cool. Pour into a clean jar, cover tightly and store in the fridge, up to 3 months.

Make the Sherbet: 
Put the shikanji, mint, chaat masala and frozen lemonade (or crushed ice) into a cocktail shaker. Cover and shake for 20 seconds, pour into a glass and top up with the seltzer, if using. 

You can also make this into a refreshing cocktail by adding your favorite spirit, like vodka or an herbal local gin.

This recipe appeared in the Summer 2025 issue as part of a larger story: A Seasoned Summer.