Revisiting Ana Sortun: Oleana, Sofra Bakery and Sarma, Cambridge & Somerville
Profile Two in this Series: Revisiting Boston Chefs and the COVID-19 Pandemic
What has been the major change since we last connected during our summer interview?
Outdoor dining was extremely helpful. The city provided space in the streets. It almost felt “normal” and it felt busy because we were doing the same or similar work but with fewer bodies to accommodate enough physical space to distance. Indoor dining happened, curfew was set, time limit was set.
Do you offer winter outdoor dining and can you describe it? What would I need to wear to stay comfortable?
We have been seating people up until now and hope to continue when there are evenings in the 40s. The 40s are the new 50s thanks to additional propane heaters. On our back patio, we are able to raise the temperature about 10 degrees. Any colder than 40 and it’s a little uncomfortable for both guests and staff. People are encouraged to wear hats, winter coats and even bring sleeping bags or heavy blankets for their legs. It can be quite cozy on a night in the mid-40s.
What is available on your winter menu?
Click here for Sofra and here for Oleana.
How is the restaurant, cooking and preparing your menus now as opposed to pre-pandemic times?
The production is based on physical space. There are two less people in the kitchen than allowed previously in all spaces. We are thinking about safety first. Then, we work out a production and menu that can be done with a couple less people than before.
We have started a CSR (community supported restaurant) program where people have subscribed to a weekly box for 3 months. This will keep our production level high enough that we don’t have to lay workers off again. We are producing many, many boxes every week at Oleana and Sofra. Oleana is all vegetarian, Sofra is a mixture of sweet and savory. It feeds four and a little or is a couple of meals for the week for two people.
Have you adapted a winter takeout menu?
Oven-ready options that people can re-heat at home easily. Warm foods. Heartier braises and baked items.
What dishes are the most popular for takeout?
Our chicken stuffed with lemon confit and frosted with za’atar is still a very popular item but so are many of our vegetarian items like fatteh and topik, and our lamb dishes.
What do you see happening in the coming months?
A bit more pivoting and hanging on for dear life. It will be too cold to eat outside even with all the heaters.
When the vaccine is widespread and the pandemic subsides, what are the top three things you will do first?
Visit with all my friends and go out to dinner every week. Go home to visit family in Seattle, fly to Istanbul.
Can you tell us your most challenging moment since the onset of the pandemic, and your most positive highlights?
Laying off the entire staff in March was the most challenging moment. Sorting through the many, many different beliefs about how this virus spreads and pivoting between the logic and the emotions of it to find a way through it was also incredibly challenging. There was a lot of faith in the good that people can do when they are in survival mode and how much they are willing to push themselves to adapt to new ways was interesting to watch. I also loved seeing our farm have the best year of its existence. People cooking a lot of vegetables and paying attention to where they come from is hopefully here to stay.
How have you been both personally and professionally grappling with life surrounding these tough times? What’s your source of relaxation and/or method of survival?
I have a couple of teachers and classes that I have taken and continue to take religiously to help me relax and connect. I have tried to push away fear and anxiety as much as possible and the daily practice was and continues to be the best tool for clarity and health. I also have a puppy and that forces me to get up and get walking very early every morning and brings so much joy to our family life.
Finally what would you like to see for 2021 in the face of a new chapter—medically, politically and spiritually?
Can’t wait for new leadership that is honest, good, focused on people and cares about the planet. I hope that this pandemic has slowed me down enough for good—that I can pay attention to everything that matters.
This interview appeared as an online exclusive in January 2021.
