Edible Food Finds: Mama Roux

Photos by Adam DeTour

The pop-up doesn’t open for another 20 minutes, and yet people are already milling around the entrance in 40° weather. By the time the bartender unlocks the door, there’s already a line 15 people deep, all waiting to get their hands on as much of Mama Roux’s coveted New Orleans–inspired food as possible. Menus are offered but no one takes one; this cult-like following has had this date circled ever since Jonathan Demoga, chef and owner of Mama Roux, publicized the pop-up on social media.

I order a heaping helping of the High Life Pimento Cheese served with Firecrackers (saltine crackers “doctored up” with a kick of oil and spice) and the Country Captain, a deliciously spicy curry fried chicken sandwich making its long-awaited return to the Mama Roux menu. It comes smothered in saffron-pickled cabbage, jalapeños, cilantro and a savory rum raisin chutney. Also available this particular evening is the NOLA BBQ Shrimp (a pile of jumbo shrimp in housemade barbecue sauce served with crusty bread), and fried and sugared beignets that give Café du Monde a run for its money.

Originally from Worcester County, Demoga spent time in New Orleans and Texas before returning to his home state equipped with an arsenal of Southern recipes and a desire to introduce the Worcester food scene to his take on traditional Southern cuisine. To do so, he opened his food trailer, Mama Roux, in spring 2017, and the lines started forming. As the lines grew, so did his popularity—so much so that he went on to hold a residency at Worcester’s Dive Bar for over two years.

Since the closing of Dive Bar in November, Mama Roux has popped up at Redemption Rock Brewing Company, The Pint, deadhorse hill and Still & Stir in Worcester, Armeno Coffee Roasters in Northborough and Medusa Brewing Company in Hudson. In each of Mama Roux’s pop-ups, the menu has been unique to that one event.

Demoga’s inspiration comes from extensive research and his interest in trying new recipes, all while maintaining his Southern style of food. “I’m constantly reading cookbooks,” he says, looking for unique items and recipes that pique his interest.

He sources local whenever possible, from places like Tougas Family Farm and Berberian’s Farm in Northborough, so long as the local ingredients he’s buying are the best he can possibly get, he says.

From sweet tea wings to homemade Southern meat pies, from Gulf shrimp and andouille jambalaya croquettes to traditional gumbo with head-on shrimp, Demoga shows a deep passion for the food he creates and an attention to detail in anything that leaves the kitchen of his 5-foot by 10-foot metal trailer.

While his following is already quite strong, his legion of fans continues to grow with every pop-up. Coming off his successful residency at Dive Bar, Demoga finds himself in a unique position, pondering where to take the trailer next. His options are extensive, with plenty of local spots looking for a long-term food arrangement, but finding the right fit will be what dictates the trailer's future.

“I want to be curating an experience,” he says, and the vibe is as important to Demoga as the food he’s creating. To discover his next pop-up location, follow him on social media.

@mamarouxtrailer
@MamaRoux