This vibrant way of cooking spinach is delicious with any simple fish, poultry or meat—or just pasta and a piece of good textured bread. The preserved lemon gives little sparkles of flavor.

Makes 2 or 3 servings.

½ pound fresh young spinach
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons finely diced pancetta (or good bacon)
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 tablespoon preserved lemon peel, finely diced (or capers)
Stem and wash the spinach; let it drain in a colander.

Put the olive oil in a pot and add the pancetta. Over medium-low heat, cook the pancetta, tossing with a spatula, until lightly browned and crisp. Add the garlic and, when softened, the pine nuts, stirring. Then gradually add the spinach leaves, stirring to wilt them in the hot oil in the bottom before adding more. When all the spinach is just barely cooked, stir in the lemon rind (or capers). Add a twist of pepper if you like, but no salt as the lemon or capers have enough. Serve right away.