By Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely Fromageon is a French term for goat cheese from the Midi (south). In this version it is a fresh chèvre softened with a little cream and flavored with honey. This rustic dessert is at once very simple and quite sophisticated—perfect for a relaxed evening of conversation among friends. This fromageon is rich and aromatic, so serve it in small portions or let your guests help themselves.

Makes about 1 cup.

Ingredients 6 ounces fresh, mild chèvre About 4 tablespoons cream 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons honey (best quality) Fresh fruit such as pears, apples, or grapes

Directions Put the chèvre in a small bowl and, using the back of a spoon, mash it with the cream to soften and blend the mixture. Stir in the honey, holding some back so as not to over-sweeten. Taste carefully for balance, adding more honey if needed; remember that darker honeys are stronger in character.  Put the fromageon in a small crock or bowl and chill until serving time.

Serve the fromageon with fruit such as crisp pears and grapes, perhaps some toasted walnuts and a sprig of fresh rosemary for aroma and color. Thin-sliced and toasted nut bread also makes a fine accompaniment, along with a glass of Armagnac or Madeira.