By Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely

Corn oysters, a kind of fritter, were very popular in early New England cookery. The texture of these, with a mixture of kernel and milky interior, is light and puffy. Simple but elegant, these oysters are delicious for breakfast with bacon and a drizzle of maple syrup. For a summer dinner, with grilled salmon or chicken and vegetables from the garden, they’re sublime.

Makes about 16 oysters

½ cup flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup corn kernels cut and “milk” scraped from the cob ¼ cup milk 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled 1 egg, separated Fat for deep frying Salt Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. In a separate bowl combine the corn, the milk, melted butter and egg yolk.

Shortly before serving, heat the fat in a deep pot for frying. Stir the dry ingredients into the corn mixture. The batter should just hold together. Beat the egg white until it holds a peak and quickly fold it into the corn mixture. Drop spoonfuls of the batter into the hot fat and fry, turning once with a slotted spoon, until they are golden and puffed. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with a touch of salt and serve hot.